Breton tops, Basquait and Bowie: celebrating forty years of Agnès b
时尚传奇：布尔古娃
广州时装翻译公司：Agnès b创始人布尔古娃刚得到法国荣誉勋章。297家门店外，她还设计10个时装系列，经营影业公司和艺术展厅。
Agnès Bourgois is a busy woman. She has just been awarded a medal and hailed a Commander of the Legion of Honour by François Hollande at the Elysée Palace. This evening she is travelling to her home town of Versailles (she was born within sight of the palace) to open the 297th Agnès b store. After our meeting she will fly to the Cannes Film Festival to hang out with Jim Jarmusch, for whom she makes western-style tuxedos.
阿涅斯•布尔古娃(Agnès Bourgois)是个大忙人，刚在爱丽舍宫(Elysée Palace)得到法国总统奥朗德(François Hollande)颁发的法国荣誉勋章(Commander of the Legion of Honour)。她还要前往自己家乡凡尔赛（她就出生在凡尔赛宫不远的地方），主持Agnès b 第297家门店的开业典礼。接受完我的采访后，她将飞赴戛纳影展(Cannes Film Festival)会见吉姆•贾木希(Jim Jarmusch)，她为对方设计了西式风格的无尾晚礼服。广州时装翻译公司。
Agnès Bourgois — born Agnès Troublé — is one of those wonders who seem able to bend time. She oversees her hugely successful eponymously named fashion business, designs 10 collections a year, runs a film company and several exhibition spaces, is an accomplished photographer, and has her hand in many philanthropic enterprises. Forty years after she sold her first striped T-shirt, she’s more energised and creative than ever.
原名阿涅斯•特鲁布蕾(Agnès Troublé)的阿涅斯•布尔古娃是当今时尚界一大传奇，似乎能让时间对她“俯首称臣”：她掌管着如今大获成功的同名品牌时装生意、每年设计10个时装系列、经营一家影业公司及几大艺术展厅，她又是摄影高手，还是几家慈善机构的负责人。在售出自己设计的首款条纹T恤衫40年后，她的精力与创意仍处巅峰状态。
“This was never what I set out to do,” she says, flicking through the proofs of the book marking her brand’s anniversary and smoking her third cigarette of the hour. “I just thought I’d end up with one cool little shop, and very few responsibilities. But I love what I do. Which is just as well, because I’m always doing it.”
“这完全不是我最初想干的行当。”她说，一边随意翻阅Agnès b创牌40周年纪念册，一边抽着雪茄（这已是一小时内的第三支）。“我当初的梦想就是开个时尚小店，无责一身轻。但我深爱自己现在从事的行当，自己干得还不赖，因为我一直在努力经营。” 广州时装翻译公司。
If you could pick one word to sum up the Agnès b aesthetic, it might be “cool”. Cool in a distinctly, cinematically French way: Gauloises, Godard and Jean Seberg on screen in a Breton top. Slightly gamine. Bourgois’ fashion empire has its roots in one of the most influential moments in the history of style. She was working at the 1960s ready-to-wear label Dorothée Bis in Paris when she met photographer and film-maker William Klein, who invited her to create the striped T-shirts worn by the cast of his seminal satire of the fashion industry, Who Are You, Polly Maggoo? (1966).
若用一个词来概括Agnès b品牌的时尚风格，也许就是“酷”，以与众不同的法国电影形象呈现：蓝高卢香烟(Gauloises)、戈达尔(Godard)以及影片中身穿海魂衫的珍•西宝(Jean Seberg)，显得顽皮可爱。布尔古娃的时尚帝国诞生于时尚史上最重要的年代。上世纪60年代，她效力于巴黎成衣品牌Dorothée Bis时，有幸结识了摄影师兼导演威廉•克莱恩(William Klein)，对方请她为自己讥讽时尚界的大片《你是谁，波莉•玛古？》(Who Are You, Polly Maggoo?, 1966)的演员们设计条纹T恤衫（海魂衫）。
“I love Bill,” she says. “He thought I was someone interesting to work with, and that was the start of my career. Since we launched, we’ve always sold the 12mm and 16mm striped tops, and we won’t stop. It’s a garment you know you can keep forever. It works for children, men and women. David Bowie loved it. We have pictures of him towards the end of his life wearing the larger stripe. No one knew it was Agnès b. I never told anyone that we were dressing him.”
“我喜欢比尔（即威廉•克莱恩）。”她回忆道，“他觉得与我合作会其乐无穷，这是我设计生涯的开始。推出首款条纹T恤衫后，我们就一直销售间距12毫米与16毫米的海魂衫，未来也不会间断。众所周知，这是件能永久保存的衣装：男女老少皆宜。大卫•鲍伊(David Bowie)爱穿它。我们看到他在迟暮之年，还是爱穿大条纹海魂衫。但没人知道他穿的是Agnès b牌子，我从未告诉任何人这是我们给他设计的。” 广州时装翻译公司。
One of the biggest breakthroughs in Bourgois’ career was the launch of her menswear in 1981, grounded in a smarter, hipper way to wear a suit. Instead of the three-piece and a tie, she proposed styling it with a T-shirt and trilby, rock star-style. “Often young men buy their first suit at Agnès b,” she says. “It never looks dated. Harvey Keitel kept the jacket he wore from us in Reservoir Dogs, even with the bullet holes, and John Travolta asked us to remake the one he wore in Pulp Fiction because he wore it out.”
布尔古娃设计生涯最大的突破是1981年推出自己的男装系列，穿上她设计的西服后显得更好看、时尚味更浓。她并没有走三件套西装与领带搭配的传统套路，而是用T恤和软毡帽与西装搭配，显得摇滚巨星味十足。“年轻人购买的第一套西装通常是Agnès b牌子。”她说，“它永远不会落伍。哈维•凯特(Harvey Keitel)一直保存着自己在影片《落水狗》 (Reservoir Dogs)中穿的那件Agnès b夹克衫，即便衣服上已布满弹洞；约翰•特拉沃尔塔(John Travolta)请我们原样制作他在影片《低俗小说》(Pulp Fiction)穿的那件衣服，因为他已把它穿烂了。”
The Agnès b label has never presented a radical way of dressing. It’s all about the easy, chic, trans-seasonal wardrobe. Her ready-to-wear label has thrived while other more directional labels have faltered. Hers has never been a label of high fashionability. “I like people making their own style from my designs.”
Agnès b从不呈现激进极端的时尚风格，它总是显得闲适、别致，能跨时装季穿。她的成衣品牌越来越火，而其它引领时尚的品牌则原地踏步走。她推出的品牌时尚风格永远不是高大上。“我喜欢世人从我的设计获得启发后自己进行设计。” 广州时装翻译公司。
Bourgois has built a business on a simplicity that borders on twee. The classic women’s “snap cardigan” is something that could go with vertiginous Alaïa heels, or flats and a set of pearls. “I am more interested in clothes and people than fashion,” she says. “Fashion is ephemeral. I have pictures of my clothes from 35 years ago, and they could have been taken last week.”
布尔古娃凭借近乎可爱的简约风格成功创业。snap cardigan经典开襟女装能与各种眼花缭乱的阿拉亚(Alaïa)高跟鞋或平底鞋以及珍珠串搭配。“我对服装和人的兴趣度比时装还要浓厚。”她说，“时装的流行转瞬即逝，我仍保留自己35年前穿的衣服照片，它们就像上周拍的一样。”
For many, Agnès b is a luxe alternative to certain high-street brands, with a higher quality than fast fashion offers. “Forty per cent of our manufacture is in France,” she says. “We also make things in Morocco, Portugal and Italy. We check all the factories for working conditions. We create some cashmere in Mongolia and I’d like to use Egyptian cotton, if the situation changes there, because it’s the best in the world.”
在很多时尚拥趸看来，Agnès b是替代某些高街品牌(high-street brands)的奢侈品，其质量远甚快速时尚（Fast Fashion，零售商将T台上最时尚的设计以最快的速度制造并铺货到卖场的一种销售模式）所推的时装。“我们40%的产品在法国生产。”她说，“我们还在摩洛哥、葡萄牙以及意大利生产。我们会检查所有厂家的生产条件。我们在蒙古生产部分羊绒；如果埃及局势转稳的话，我很想采用埃及产的棉布，因为它的质量世界第一。” 广州时装翻译公司。
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Annual turnover at Agnès b was €290m last year and the label has made Bourgois one of the richest women in France. Yet one gets the sense that the brand exists and expands to support projects she’s more passionate about. For more than 10 years she’s been backing Tara Expeditions, a ship that studies factors around ecological threat and climate change. In 2009 she founded the Endowment Fund, creating products to support humanitarian projects in education, health and water. Then there’s her passion for cinema, photography, music and fine art, with exhibition spaces in Paris, New York and Hong Kong. “Work with my galleries is my life,” she says.
Agnès b 2015年的营业额为2.9亿欧元，这使布尔古娃成为法国首屈一指的女富豪。然而，世人的感觉是：Agnès b的存在与发展的目的是用来支持她更为倾心的事业。10多年来，她一直鼎力支持Tara Expeditions项目，这艘科考船研究造成生态威胁与气候变暖的各种因素；2009年，她成立了Endowment Fund，设计的产品用来支持教育、健康以及饮用水等人道主义项目。此外，她还醉心于电影、摄影、音乐以及美术，在巴黎、纽约以及香港分别设有展览厅。“捣鼓自己的艺术陈列馆就是我的生活内容。”她说。
Agnès b doesn’t advertise. Instead, she creates buzz through her alignment with counterculture. Patti Smith is a close friend who has performed at her catwalk shows; between them, they may have done more to elevate the simple white shirt than anyone else in the world. She also has a longstanding relationship with the underground film-maker Kenneth Anger, who has created designs for her ongoing series of artist T-shirts.
Agnès b品牌不做广告。相反，她通过与反主流文化“结盟”制造轰动效应。帕蒂•史密斯(Patti Smith)是其闺蜜，曾在其时装发布会上倾情演出；为提升风格最简洁的白衬衣的影响力，她俩可能是最不遗余力的了。她还与地下电影导演肯尼斯•安格尔(Kenneth Anger)成为密友，对方曾为阿涅斯设计正在打造的艺术风格系列T恤衫。广州时装翻译公司。
“I’ve known Anger since I was 18,” she says. “I love the secret museum of his work he has at his home in LA. Fifteen years ago I proposed a show of his images at my gallery. His work is very modern, just like Jonas Mekas [another underground artist and close friend]. Both men are treasures. They will never be old or out of fashion.” Twenty-four of her artist T-shirts, including work by Gilbert & George and John Giorno, have been reissued for the 40th anniversary of the label.
“我从18岁起就结识了安格尔。”她说，“我特喜欢他洛杉矶家里的秘密博物馆，他的作品都在里面。15年前，他提议在我的画廊举办个人作品展。他的摄影作品颇具现代风格，酷似乔纳斯•梅卡斯(Jonas Mekas)，对方同样是一位地下摄影师，也是布尔古娃的密友。两位男士都是不可多得的才俊，他们的作品永远不会过时。”她曾推出的24款艺术风格T恤在这次品牌创建40周年时再次推出，其中就包括了吉尔伯特和乔治(Gilbert & George)双人组艺术家与约翰•吉奥诺(John Giorno)的作品。
Agnès b is a fashion brand that has always felt apart from, or perhaps above, fashion. “I don’t go to anyone else’s shows, or into anyone’s shops,” she says. The brand takes a pared-back, modernist approach to presentation and has always pushed artistic collaboration. Bourgois creates film projects with Harmony Korine, recently staged an exhibition with Ryan McGinness and assembles alternative music compilations with Rough Trade. She dresses the French singers Jeanne Added and Jain, and thrives on music, but takes no inspiration from mainstream pop. She is the anti-Yeezy. “People like Kim Kardashian and Kanye aren’t poets,” she says. “Patti Smith is a poet. Mapplethorpe was a great artist. I really believe there will be new talent, there will always be quality.”
Agnès b这个时尚品牌给人的感觉是永远远离（抑或说可能超越）时尚。“我从不观看其它时装展、也不逛任何门店。”她说。Agnès b对发布会的态度是少而精，秉持现代派风格，并一直推行艺术合作之道。布尔古娃与哈莫尼•科林(Harmony Korine)合拍电影、最近与瑞恩•麦金尼斯(Ryan McGinness)合办艺术展、并与Rough Trade唱片公司收集另类音乐全辑。她为法国歌手Jeanne Added与贾恩(Jain)设计服装，痴迷音乐，但不喜欢主流流行乐。她反感Yeezy这类新潮玩意儿。“金•卡戴珊(Kim Kardashian)与坎爷(Kanye)之流根本不是诗人。”她说。“帕蒂•史密斯是诗人，梅普勒索普(Mapplethorpe)是大艺术家。我相信新人与佳作会层出不穷。” 广州时装翻译公司。
One of Bourgois’s bestselling artist’s T-shirts features work by Jean-Michel Basquiat, whose work she was buying before he became famous. “I remember when he was still working as Samo,” she says, “writing slogans on the street in Manhattan. I find the artists Faile and Bäst very interesting right now. I was in New York again recently, and I took a lot of photographs of the wheatpaste murals and slogans. There was one that I found very moving: ‘I am dying to die.’ I still love the idea of talking walls.”
布尔古娃最畅销的一款艺术型T恤来自让•米切尔•巴斯奎特(Jean-Michel Basquiat)的涂鸦艺术。对方成名之前，布尔古娃就一直是其作品的买主。她说，“我记住他当时正以Samo的签名在曼哈顿的大街小巷玩涂鸦艺术，我如今觉得Faile与Bäst的涂鸦作品很有艺术内涵。我最近又去了一趟纽约，拍了好多大型贴纸涂鸦(wheat paste)壁画与标语的照片。其中一幅作品我觉得非常感人：‘我很想一死了之。’我仍然喜欢用涂鸦墙来表达艺术思想的形式。”
Bourgois has plenty to say and an eye for what sells. She is someone who has packaged her own taste into an ever-expanding, hugely successful international business. But despite her myriad creative pursuits, it’s the omnipresence of the Agnès b brand itself that counts as her most interesting, and successful art project to date. In a way, it’s a fashion masterpiece.
对于市场上的艺术作品，布尔古娃总是有说不完的话，而且眼光独到。她正是一位能把自己的艺术情趣融入到自己日益发展壮大的国际知名企业的高人。但是，尽管她的艺术爱好很多，但正是无处不在的Agnès b品牌是其迄今为止最受关注、也是最成功的艺术事业。从某种程度说，这堪称一大时尚杰作。广州时装翻译公司。
Biography: The Life of Agnès b
阿涅斯•布尔古娃的传奇人生
1941 Agnès Troublé (later Agnès b) is born in Versailles, the second of four children. Alongside her schooling at Cours Gufflet, she studies drawing at Versailles’s École des Beaux-Arts.
1941年：阿涅斯•特鲁布蕾（后来取名阿涅斯•布尔古娃）出生于法国凡尔赛，是家中四个孩子中的老二。在Cours Gufflet求学的同时，她还在凡尔赛美术学校(Versailles’s École des Beaux-Arts)学习绘画。
1960 Aged 19, has twin boys with first husband Christian Bourgois (from whom she took the ‘b’). She is divorced by 20, and starts working as a freelance designer and a junior fashion editor at Elle.
1960年：19岁的阿涅斯与第一任丈夫克里斯蒂安•布尔古娃(Christian Bourgois)生了一对双胞胎儿子（正是从首任丈夫的姓氏中取了“b”这个字母）。一年后她与丈夫离婚，开始成为自由设计师以及成为《Elle》时尚杂志的初级编辑。广州时装翻译公司。
1976 Her first boutique opens in an old butcher’s shop in Les Halles, Paris (above). It features posters and graffiti on the walls, and an eclectic mix of work clothes and basics such as Chinese jackets, dungarees and gym shoes that she dyed, reworked and mixed with her own designs.
1976年：首家精品门店于巴黎雷阿尔区(Les Halles)昔日的一家肉铺店开张。门店墙上遍布海报与涂鸦画，所卖东西可谓五花八门：工装服以及马褂、粗布工作服与体操鞋等自己印染与改动的日用装束，并把它们与自己设计的东西进行混售。
1977 After creating a striped top for the film Who Are You, Polly Maggoo? in 1966, she launches it in her collections. Made from the cotton used for rugby uniforms, the classic piece is made in four stripe versions and was worn by David Bowie (left).
1977年：为1966年上映的影片《你是谁，波莉•玛古？》设计海魂衫后，她于1977年推出自己首个时装系列。她用制作橄榄球服的棉布打造的经典款海魂衫共有四种条纹图案，并由大卫•鲍伊穿。广州时装翻译公司。
1979 Devises the “snap” cardigan, inspired by 18th-century vests.
1979年：设计snap cardigan开襟装，其灵感源自18世纪的马甲。
1981 Opens her first men’s store, saying, “My collections for men have a feminine aspect.”
1981年：首家男装门店开业，她说，“自己的男装带有女装基因。”
1994 John Travolta and Uma Thurman wear Agnès b in Pulp Fiction (above). Travolta asks for another suit when the film wraps.
1994年：约翰•屈伏塔与乌玛•瑟曼(Uma Thurman)在影片《低俗小说》中身穿Agnès b，当影片杀青后，屈伏塔请求她再原样制作一件自己在影片中穿的Agnès b。
2006 Patti Smith, a friend of the designer, performs wearing Agnès b to celebrate the brand’s 30th anniversary (above).
2006年，布尔古娃闺蜜帕蒂•史密斯身穿Agnès b在创牌30周年纪念活动上倾情放歌。
