The bronzer age: is male make-up trend or taboo?
男士美妆：愿做不愿说
广州化妆品翻译公司：男用粉底液、古铜色面霜等在欧美销售激增，布莱尔和特朗普都是忠实消费者。是否愿意承认美妆则“因代而异”。
“He often wore make-up, even when he wasn’t on TV. Maybe it just appealed to his sense of always being a performer.” The political journalist and author Robert Harris’s damning assessment of Tony Blair last week contained many swingeing blows at the former prime minister. But few cut as deeply as Harris’s assertion that Blair is a fan of foundation.
“他经常美妆，即便不接受电视采访时也这样。也许这只是满足其至始至终‘演戏者’的虚荣心。”不久前，政论记者兼作家罗伯特•哈里斯(Robert Harris)对英国前首相布莱尔(Tony Blair)的口诛笔伐可谓火药味十足，但杀伤力最大的莫过于哈里斯坚称布莱尔是“粉底控”。广州化妆品翻译公司。
To be revealed as a man who wears make-up for any purpose other than reducing the glare of the Newsnight studio lights would seem most emasculating. But Blair is not the only alpha male with a penchant for the pan stick. The closer Donald Trump gets to power, the bronzer he becomes — the tan-o-meter seeming to notch up a deeper shade of orange with each of his rabble-rousing speeches. Boris Johnson lately admitted, and then retracted, the fact he is now a bottle blond. Most impressive of all, on a recent trip to New York, Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu caused controversy by running up grooming expenses of $1,600 on hairstyling and $1,750 on make-up.
揭底布莱尔各种场合都补妆、而不是把BBC《新闻之夜》(Newsnight)演播室的灯光调暗一些，火力似乎非常软弱无力。但布莱尔并非唯一痴迷于美容的大哥大。特朗普(Donald Trump)越接近美国总统宝座，他的古铜色皮肤颜色就越深——他每发表一次煽动性演讲，棕褐色皮肤测量仪就似乎又测得一款深色调橙色。鲍里斯•约翰逊(Boris Johnson)近日承认（随后又收回）自己如今是金色染发素不离身。最引人注目的莫过于以色列总理内塔尼亚胡(Benjamin Netanyahu)，他最近的纽约之行竟积欠了1600美元发型设计费以及1750美元美妆费，引发激烈争议。广州化妆品翻译公司。
Could it be that male make-up today is simply becoming less taboo? According to the beauty services website Treatwell (formerly known as Wahanda) men are now signing up for all sorts of grooming practices, and don’t care who knows it; Brazilian blow-dries (whereby the hair is lacquered to prevent frizz) are up 200 per cent since last year; waxing is up by 85 per cent and 25 per cent of their male clientele book a manicure.
难道说：男士美容如今已变得不再那么犯忌？据美容服务网站Treatwell（以前称Wahanda）统计：男士如今预订各种美容，而且并不在意别人知晓；巴西吹烫头发的男士同比增加了2倍（头发涂抹定型剂以防止其卷曲）；男士褪毛者(waxing)上升了85%，还有25%的男性客户预订了修指甲。
Neither are men immune to the benefits of a little maquillage; sales of make-up to men are now sufficiently strong that some cosmetics brands have started to produce make-up designed specifically with men in mind. Guerlain’s Terracotta Bronzer was the first commercial make-up produced for the men’s market, but although that has been discontinued, the latest women’s version is shimmer-free and so will work for men. Nick Ferguson, the mastermind behind Estée Lauder’s pop-up male-focused venture The Grooming Station, cites Clinique for Men Face Bronzer (£19.50) and Tom Ford’s Brow Gel Comb (£32) as being two especially popular products at his new salon. MAC is preparing for its second collaboration (which will launch in the UK next month) with Peter and Harry Brant, the sons of supermodel Stephanie Seymour and billionaire Peter M Brant. The new line even includes a man-friendly lipstick.
男士对于略微美容的好处并不是无动于衷；男士化妆品如今销售强劲，以至于有些化妆品公司开始生产男性专用美容用品。娇兰(Guerlain)推出的Terracotta Bronzer曾是上市的首款男用美容化妆品，尽管后来停产，但最新推出的女款Terracotta Bronzer不含亮光粉，因此也适用于男士。尼克•弗格森(Nick Ferguson)是雅诗兰黛(Estée Lauder)专门服务男士的临时门店The Grooming Station的主策划者，他说倩碧的男用古铜色面霜（Clinique for Men Face Bronzer，售价19.50英镑）与汤姆•福特(Tom Ford)的Brow Gel Comb（售价32英镑）是新店最受欢迎的两款美妆品。MAC与彼得与哈利•布兰特兄弟(Peter and Harry Brant)合推的第二款男用美容化妆品也在英国正式发售，这小哥俩是超模史蒂芬妮•西摩(Stephanie Seymour)与亿万富翁彼得•M•布兰特(Peter M Brant)的宝贝儿子。新系列中甚至包括了一款男用唇膏。广州化妆品翻译公司。
Givenchy, which has been developing male-friendly cosmetics for a few seasons, claims that men account for 50 per cent of sales of its Hydra Sparkling BB cream (a fancy word for a type of foundation) and that its bestselling primer Mister Smooth (£29) was also developed for men. Its current summer collection, Les Saisons, includes bronzers without shimmer that create an imperceptible finish rather than that glittery giveaway. “But, don’t write about it,” urges Givenchy make-up artistic director Nicolas Degennes. “Men will never admit to using make up.”
纪梵希(Givenchy)这几个时装季一直在研发男用化妆品，它声称男消费者如今占到了水漾美肌BB霜（Hydra Sparkling BB cream）销售量的一半，并且说旗下最畅销的光滑粉底霜Mister Smooth（售价29英镑）也专为男士研发。它目前推出的夏季系列Les Saisons就包括了不含亮光剂的古铜色化妆品，抹后的效果不是皮肤亮闪闪，而是有着难以觉察的光洁感。“但不要报道这个了。”纪梵希化妆品艺术总监尼古拉•德热纳(Nicolas Degennes)力劝道。“男士永远不会承认用过美妆品。”
They may not want to talk about it, but many men are coming around to the idea of a little cosmetic enhancement. “There’s definitely been a shift in attitude recently,” says Ferguson. “Thanks to stylish men in the public eye, like Cristiano Ronaldo, little things like applying moisturiser, dyeing your hair, or applying bronzer, have become an e­xpression of who you are.”
男士也许不想公开谈论使用美妆品，但很多男士开始接受涂抹些许化妆品以增辉的做法。“毫无疑问，最近时尚风向开始转变，”弗格森说。“这要感谢C罗(Cristiano Ronaldo)这些经常在公开场合露面的型男，保湿霜、古铜色化妆品以及烫染头发等细节已成为某些型男的形象标志。”
The Grooming Station, a barber shop and store that opened its most recent branch within its Fitzrovia London HQ last month, is designed to cater for “social-media savvy men who enjoy going to the gym, taking selfies and meticulously looking after their appearance”, according to Chris Good, Estée Lauder’s UK and Ireland president. He intends to roll out further stations in an effort to “tap into the growing male desire to invest in their sense of self”. James Read, the spray tan artist and founder of the eponymous sunless tan product range, says the number of men booking spray tans is enjoying a slow but steady increase.
The Grooming Station是雅诗兰黛不久前在其伦敦费兹洛维亚总部(Fitzrovia London HQ)内开设的最新门店兼美发店，以满足“那些常去健身房、喜欢自拍以及讲究自己形象的社交媒体弄潮男”之需求，雅诗兰黛英国及爱尔兰分部总裁克里斯•古德(Chris Good)说。他打算大面积开设这类门店，“充分利用男士花钱改善自身形象的愿望日渐浓厚的契机”。詹姆斯•里德(James Read)是皮肤着色喷剂方面的专家，也是同名美黑系列产品(sunless tan product)的创办者，他说预订皮肤着色喷雾剂的男士人数正缓慢而稳步增长中。广州化妆品翻译公司。
Where has this sudden peak in products to perfect the complexion come from? Like women, men are under greater pressure today to maintain their looks, especially in a digital-dominated age where our faces are on show everywhere, from the corporate video to the postage-stamp-sized pictures that appear at the top of our every email. Our faces are being judged — all the time. “It’s all tied in with this idea that you are your own image,” says make-up artist Kay Montano, who works with actors and says the ubiquity of the digital image has made men more susceptible to self-improvement. “In a picture we scrutinise the way we look, whereas in real life our attractiveness has more to do with character and chemistry.”What looks good on camera can look truly frightening in real life. Sean Dixon, co-founder of Savile Row tailor Richard James, said of the recent menswear shows: “I was aware that certain men — straight men — were wearing foundation. From afar, they looked good, but up close their faces were alarming. It looks too considered.”
那么，这些用来完美男士形象的美容用品为何会突然井喷？与女性一样，如今的男性保持自身良好形象的压力越来越大，尤其在数字化时代，从公司视频片到电子邮件顶端邮票大小的脸部照，男人的脸蛋到处“亮相”。我们每个人的脸蛋每时每刻都遭人评头论足。“这一切都与这一理念紧密相连：自己形象自己负责。”专与影视明星打交道的美容专家凯•蒙塔诺(Kay Motano)说，她说由于数字照片无处不在，男性对改善自我形象更为敏感。“拍照时，我们会挑剔讲究自己的外表，而在实际生活中，个人魅力更多与性格以及关系亲密度相关。影像中的亮丽形象，现实生活中可能会惨不忍睹。萨维尔街(Savile Row)定制裁缝行理查德•詹姆斯(Richard James)联合创始人肖恩•狄克逊(Sean Dixon)这样评价最近的男装秀：“我知道有些男士（纯爷们）打了粉底妆。远看，他们形象亮丽，但近看则目不忍睹。这一切似乎显得太过处心积虑了。”
When Montano does make-up for men on shoots she keeps it minimal and draws on her experiences of working with the photographer Bruce Weber. “Bruce is obsessed with eyebrows,” she says. “They need to be natural so I never pluck them.” She’s horrified by the current trend for “carved, stencilled brows” and is especially despairing of the average male’s application skills. “You see these guys at the gym, thinking they look all-male, but what they don’t realise is their effeminate eyebrows make them look like an off-duty transsexual. The gay men I know have the same finesse for detail as women do,” she continues. “But the straight men I know dab on a bit of concealer and think, ‘I look fine!’ Well, no, they don’t,” she says. “Covering up spots and shadows is one of the hardest things for a make-up artist to do.” She says designers Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs are the rare men who understand how to use make-up; just as well, since both have put their names on their own cosmetic brands. Jacobs wears his own-label Lock Lips Moisture Balm (£18); his Brow Tamer Grooming Gel (£18); and his Remedy Concealer Pen (£25).
当蒙塔纳为男演员美妆时，一直注重“浅尝辄止”，并充分利用自己与摄影师布鲁斯•韦伯(Bruce Webber)共事获得的经验。“布鲁斯对眉毛情有独钟。”她说，“他们希望显得自然，所以我从不修整他们的眉毛。”她对当前盛行“雕眉与刷眉” (carved, stencilled brows)惊骇不已，尤其对普通男士的美妆手法甚感失望。“瞧瞧健身房的那些男士，自以为像猛男，但他们没有意识到的是自己女人气的眉毛让他们颇似下了班的变性人。我认识的男同性恋者与女性一样讲究细节。”她继续说，“但纯爷们轻抹些许遮暇化妆品后会自以为，‘本人形象不错！’但事实正好相反。”她说，“美容专家最棘手的事就是遮掩皮肤斑点与阴影部分。”她说汤姆•福特与马克•雅可布(Marc Jacobs)是屈指可数懂得化妆诀窍的设计师，因为两位都推出了自己的同名美妆品牌。雅可布用的都是自己的品牌——唇膏Lock Lips Moisture Balm（售价18英镑）、眉毛美容定型胶Brow Tamer Grooming Gel（售价18英镑）以及遮瑕色修笔Remedy Concealer Pen（售价25英镑）。广州化妆品翻译公司。
Unsurprisingly, admitting to wearing make-up is a generational thing. While younger consumers are quite open about it, the older generation remains bashful about the blusher. Hair colourist Nicola Clarke, who works at John Frieda, says that she sees plenty of male clients for colour treatments, but most prefer that no one knows they have them: one famous rock star gets his grey covered in the private room at the Aldford Street salon in London. Neither are the treatments they seek especially showy. “Men come in wanting to look natural, rather than as they did in their prime,” she explains. “So I just use pieces of colour rather than a full head, and we leave some greys at the hairline.”
承认使用美妆用品“因代而异”，这一点都不足为奇。尽管年轻一代消费者对此非常坦率公开，但老一辈人对涂指抹粉仍觉忸怩羞答答。约翰•弗里达(John Frieda)旗下染发专家尼古拉•克拉克(Nicola Clarke)说自己的很多男性客户都要求染发，但大多数希望对此保密：一位满头花发的知名摇滚明星在约翰•弗里达位于伦敦Aldford Street大街的美店单间内染了发。这些明星客户不希望染得太过显眼。“男士希望模样自然，而不是像他们风华正茂时那么张扬。”她这样解释道，“因此，我只是一片片、而不是对整个头部进行烫染，会在发际处留些灰白发。”
It’s the same story at the Harley Street Hair Clinic. Wayne Rooney may have tweeted his hair transplant treatment without fear of ridicule, but their older patients are far more reluctant to admit to having treatments. “We get a lot of media executives in here, the kind who look like that friend of your dad’s and have long job titles,” says Nadeem Uddin Khan, the clinic’s director and owner. “They book three weeks off work, rather than the recommended two, as they’re anxious they won’t recover in time and someone will guess, but then they’ll quietly tell their talent — the presenters — to come and see us.”
哈利街美发店(Harley Street Hair Clinic)的情况如出一辙，球星韦恩•鲁尼(Wayne Rooney)也许大可在推特上公开自己植过发、而无需担心遭人讥笑，但年龄大的谢顶男士则极不情愿承认自己植过发。“我们的客户中有很多媒体界高管，模样老得就象你父亲的老友，却担任了诸多要职。”哈利街美发店老板兼主管纳迪姆•乌丁•汗(Nadeem Uddin Khan)说。“这些高管预请三周假，而不是正常情况下的二周时间，因为他们担心自己不能及时‘恢复元气’，从而引发他人胡乱猜测，但他们会悄悄告诉推荐给他们的人想到我们美发店染发。”
