Ancient mariners of Spain
西班牙金枪鱼美食游
广州西班牙语翻译公司：4月底至6月初的金枪鱼捕捞季，现场观摩绿色围捕金枪鱼并品尝金枪鱼美食是西班牙特色旅游项目。
I had been gazing at the surface of the sea for more than an hour from the deck of a fishing boat, just off Zahara de los Atunes on Andalusia’s Costa de la Luz. Our boat, the Tierra, was one of four making up the sides of a square, the men on board gradually raising the net that was slung between them. We were nearing the climax of the almadraba, a technique used to catch bluefin tuna on this stretch of coast since the Phoenicians settled 3,000 years ago.
我站立在停靠在小村萨阿拉-德洛斯阿图内斯(Zahara de los Atunes)不远处的渔船甲板上，凝望海面足足超过1个小时。萨阿拉-德洛斯阿图内斯位于西班牙安达卢西亚的光明海岸(Andalusia’s Costa de la Luz)。我们的船Tierra与其它3艘船围成一个方形区域，4艘渔船上的渔夫正合力慢慢收起撒放在他们之间的渔网。我们即将就要看到almadraba古法捕捞蓝鳍金枪鱼的最高潮部分。早在3000多年前，定居于此的腓尼基人(Phoenicians)就用这种方法在这片海域捕捞它们。广州西班牙语翻译公司。
With seven others, I had set off from the harbour soon after dawn on a sunny Saturday morning in May. We were led by Ignacio Soto, who runs Nature Tarifa, the only company that takes people to witness the almadraba from the proximity of the trap itself. Recognised by the European Parliament as a sustainable fishing method in a 2015 study, it uses a maze of nets, anchored to the seabed, to catch tuna as they follow their migratory route from the cold waters of the Atlantic to the Mediterranean to reproduce. As they swim close to the coast in search of the entrance to the Mediterranean through the Strait of Gibraltar, some of the fish are diverted into the nets, and funnelled through them until they reach a final chamber, the copo. Once a day from the end of April to the beginning of June, the floor of the copo is lifted to the surface — the moment we were waiting to see.
周六拂晓时分，正当旭日东升之际，我与其他七位游客从港口出发。我们的导游是Nature Tarifa旅行社老板伊格纳西奥•索托(Ignacio Soto)，这是唯一一家搭载游客亲临围捕现场观摩almadraba古法捕捉金枪鱼的旅行社。在欧洲议会(European Parliament)2015年的一份研究报告中，almadraba被确认为可持续性捕鱼法。它使用固定于海床的迷宫式鱼网，捕捉从寒冷的大西洋通过直布罗陀海峡(Strait of Gibraltar)迁游至地中海产卵的金枪鱼群，有些金枪鱼就被引入渔网，并最终进到网箱（即所谓的copo）。从4月底至6月初，渔民们会每天一次把网箱起升出水——这正是我们翘首以待的关键时刻。
There are four almadrabas along this stretch of coast, set up off Conil, Barbate, Zahara de los Atunes and Tarifa, but together they catch a tiny percentage of the tuna that pass through these waters. The size of the mesh means that only mature fish are caught, usually more than 10 years old, which will have already reproduced several times. The fishermen adhere to a strict quota, which is increasing every year as stock levels rise. “Until about five years ago, nearly all the catch from this Zahara almadraba went to Japan, but now more than half stays here,” said Soto. “This is the best bluefin tuna you can get and people in
这片海岸共设有四块捕捞区，分别位于科尼(Conil)、巴尔巴特(Barbate)、萨阿拉-德洛斯阿图内斯以及塔里发(Tarifa)，但四个海捞区的总捕捞量只占游经这片海域金枪鱼群的一小部分。鱼网网眼很大，只能捕获生长了10年以上、已繁殖好几回的成年金枪鱼。当地渔民严格遵守捕捞配额制，而配额会随每年鱼群数的增加而适度增加。“大约五年前，萨阿拉渔猎区捕获的金枪鱼几乎都销往日本，但如今一半以上的捕获量在欧洲本地销售。”索托说，“这儿出产的蓝鳍金枪鱼品质最好，包括西班牙人在内的欧洲人如今也想一饱口福。”广州西班牙语翻译公司。
Suddenly dozens of shiny silver fins and tails burst through the water right in front of me, turning what had been a placid pool into a thrashing mass of spray. “The net has been hoisted up to 10 metres from the surface,” explained Soto. “Now the boats have to shift much closer together and get it up very quickly.”
突然之间，几十条银光闪闪的鳍与鱼尾就在我眼前扑腾出水面，刚才宁静祥和的海面顿时浪花飞溅。“鱼网已拉升至海平面上方10米的地方。”索托解释道，“现在4艘船必须靠得更近，并且一鼓作气拉起鱼网。”
The fishermen were shouting to each other across the boats, which were now only a few metres apart. Leaning over the sides, in what looked like a choreographed routine, they grabbed at the net with their bare hands. “They have all been doing it for years, learning the technique from their fathers,” said Soto.
渔民们互相喊着号子，现在船与船之间的间距只有几米。渔民们都站在各自船的一侧（感觉是预先精心设计好的动作），徒手奋力拉拽起鱼网。“他们都是干了好多年的老把式，都是子承父业。”索托说。
Then half a dozen of them jumped down into the heaving mass of more than a hundred tuna in the net. Many of the fish were bigger than the men, who dodged from side to side to avoid the frantic flicking of their tails: a swipe could inflict serious injury. Until a decade ago, the fishermen would at this point have set about killing the fish with large, sharp hooks, turning the water red with blood and gore (in Sicily the almadraba is known as the mattanza, the slaughter). Now — out of concern for damage to the meat as much as the stress caused to the animals, I was told — the men began looping a rope around the fish tails, two at a time, to be hoisted on to a boat called the Frialba Uno. There they were dispatched with a swift cut behind the head with what must have been a very sharp knife indeed, before being lowered into the hold.
好几位渔民随后跃入沉甸甸的渔网中，里面足足有100多条金枪鱼。很多鱼的块头甚至胜过渔民，渔民则左右腾挪以闪避狂乱甩摆的鱼尾：若被其重重击中一下，便可造成重伤。若放在10年前，渔民此时就会开始用锋利的大尖钩大开杀戒，并把海水染成一片血红（在意大利的西西里岛，这种捕捞金枪鱼被称为mattanza、即大屠杀）。由于担心破坏肉质以及减少金枪鱼的痛苦，索托告诉我如今的渔民开始用绳子绑住鱼尾（一次绑住两条），而后再把它们吊升至一艘名叫Frialba Uno的船上。在那儿铺展开来，用锋利无比的刀在鱼脖子部位迅速一划拉后，就把它们扔下船舱。广州西班牙语翻译公司。
“There is only space for 100 or so, but they don’t want any more than that. To guarantee the quality, the boat has to get the haul back to the harbour, butcher it and freeze the fish going to Japan within two hours,” said Soto. “With more fish to deal with, the team will take longer, which means the quality — and the price — will drop. Today we have caught 120, but that is really pushing it.”
“船舱只能搁大约100条金枪鱼，但渔民都是适可而止。为了保证出口日本的鱼肉质量，渔船必须迅速拉回港口，并在两个小时内把鱼肢解以及冷冻完毕。”索托说，“捕获太多金枪鱼，船队就得花费更多时间，这意味着鱼质（以及售价）会下降。我们今天捕获了120条金枪鱼，但这真得是极限了。”
Then, the fishermen were suddenly still. They lit cigarettes and yelled from boat to boat, but now it was banter rather than frenzied instructions. We stumbled off the deck on to Soto’s motor yacht to head west back to Barbate, passing the Frialba Uno as it chugged home with its heavy load. Through the morning haze, I could see the lighthouse at Cape Trafalgar up ahead and
然后，渔民们突然间安静了下来。他们点上烟，并开始按船次第呼喊开来，此时的他们是在相互逗玩、而非歇斯底里地指手画脚。我们踉踉跄跄从渔船甲板上下到索托的摩托游艇上，然后一路向西返回巴尔巴特，并把突突声前行、满载鱼货而归的Frialba Uno甩在了后面。透过晨雾，我能看到西北前方特拉法尔加角(Cape Trafalgar)矗立的灯塔以及大海南对岸的摩洛哥。广州西班牙语翻译公司。
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My almadraba tuna adventure had begun a few days earlier in the food market in Barbate. I was there with Annie Manson, who is from
我的古法捕捞金枪鱼惊险旅程其实几天前就在巴尔巴特的鱼货市场就开始了。当时我与来自苏格兰的安妮•梅森(Annie Manson)一同前往，她在自己位于山顶小村贝赫尔-德拉弗龙特拉(Vejer de la Frontera)现代风格的白色别墅中开设烹饪课以及经营假日美食游，贝赫尔-德拉弗龙特拉是西班牙最迷人的地方，还是西班牙的美食圣地。
Her Ultimate Almadraba Tour, a new trip launched this year, offers not just the chance to watch the fishing but to learn all about the culture of cooking and eating bluefin tuna in this corner of south-west
Ultimate Almadraba Tour是安妮•梅森今年新推出的旅游项目，不仅可以实地观摩捕捞金枪鱼，还能把西班牙西南地区烹制与享用蓝鳍金枪鱼所涉及的文化知识了解得一清二楚。
“Almadraba tuna is so sought-after because they build up blubber in the Atlantic to keep warm and that goes to the belly, which is marbled like the best Ibérico ham. When they swim past the coast, they are at their prime. Fat is king here,” she explained, as we looked at the two-dozen different cuts on one of the stalls. “Everything is eaten, nose to tail; even the head is divided into five parts.”
“这儿捕捞的金枪鱼异常畅销，原因是它们在大西洋生活时，已在鱼腹部储存了大量用以御寒的脂肪，其纹理酷似最上乘的伊比利亚黑毛猪火腿(Ibérico ham)。当这种金枪鱼游经此片海域时，正是其最膘肥体壮之时。而鱼脂在此地最受青睐。”我俩看到一家鱼摊摆放20多块不同部位的鱼肉段时她这样解释道。“从鱼头至鱼尾的所有部位都能享用，甚至鱼头也会一分为五。”广州西班牙语翻译公司。
The Spanish call it atún rojo, or red tuna, which makes sense when you see it glistening vermilion on the slab. The prized ventresca, the belly, was €40 a kilo. One cut was triangular and much darker and denser than the rest. “That’s the heart,” said the stallholder. There were some pale blobby bits, too. “Those are huevas de leche, a real delicacy,” said Annie. “The soft roe or sperm sacs,” she added helpfully. I winced.
西班牙人把鱼里脊部（即red tuna）称为atún rojo，看到摊位厚板上搁放的鱼里脊泛着鲜红色时，就完全清楚了。鱼腹部(prizedventresca)售价每公斤40欧元。其中一块切成了三角形状，它比其它部位颜色都要深、肉质更显紧致。“这是鱼心。”摊主说。我还看到斑斑点点的浅色东西。“那是鱼籽，真正的饕餮美味。”安妮说。“也就是鱼卵或者叫精囊。”她补充道。我不禁望而却步。
While we waited to buy huge bunches of asparagus and onions, another stallholder handed me a baked sweet potato to eat. “People pop them in the oven after they take the bread out in the morning, then eat them as dessert with sugar on them,” said Annie.
正当我俩排队购买大把芦笋与洋葱时，另一位摊主送了我一个烤红薯。“当地人每天早上从炉子取完面包后，就把红薯搁进云，拿出后抹上糖当零食吃。”安妮说。
We drove back to Vejer, the road twisting up a gorge on an ascent that is sufficiently steep to make your ears pop. Vejer is only 200 metres above sea level but commands views of the surrounding plains and across the sea to Africa. In the kitchen in Casa Alegre, literally Happy House, Annie poured us glasses of fino. “Sherry pairs very well with tuna, with the different styles suiting the various cuts,” she said, as she showed us how to fillet anchovies from the market. “Put your thumb behind the head and just snap it off. Then turn it over, run your thumb all the way down to the tail and just break off the backbone.”
我俩驱车返回贝赫尔村，山路顺着峡谷盘旋而上，但坡度陡得让人心惊肉跳。贝赫尔村海拔只有200米高，但站在上面，四周平原以及海对岸非洲的胜景一揽无遗。在Casa Alegre度假屋（即“幸福家园”的意思）的厨房里，安妮给我们斟上了几杯菲诺雪利酒。“雪利酒与金枪鱼搭配享用效果最好，不同酒味适合不同部位的鱼肉段。”她说道，并给我们演示如何把刚从市场买来的凤尾鱼去除脊骨。“把拇指放在鱼头部，径直把头折断后翻过鱼身，拇指顺势滑至鱼尾部，这样直接就能剔去鱼脊骨。”广州西班牙语翻译公司。
With a reassuring glass of González Byass Viña AB amontillado to hand — we were getting a sherry class thrown in as we cooked — we made the local dish atún encebollado, with chunks of mormo tuna, from the top of the head, and the onions we had bought, which all sizzled away in a pot with lots of pimentón (paprika). We made a chocolate cake, too, liberally sprinkled with raisins soused in sweet Pedro Ximénez sherry.
我们手上各自拿着一杯冈萨雷-比亚斯家族酒庄(González Byass)出产的薇娜AB阿蒙蒂亚雪利美酒(Viña AB amontillado)——烹制期间，安妮还给我们免费普及了一堂有关雪利酒的课程——我们烹制了当地的美味佳肴——葱头炒金枪鱼( atún encebollado)：它用取材鱼头顶部的肉段与买来的洋葱炒做就，盛入放了很多辣椒粉的陶罐后，嘶拉作响。我们还做了个巧克力蛋糕，上面洒了些浸泡于佩德罗-希梅内斯(Pedro Ximénez)雪利酒里的葡萄干。
While our efforts turned out rather well (or was that the sherry talking?), there were astounding gastronomic experiences yet to come. The next day we were back in Barbate at El Campero, a restaurant which opened in 1965 and has become celebrated nationwide for its tuna dishes. Its almadraba tasting menu takes guests from marinated loin dice to sashimi, tataki and tartare. A platter of grilled cuts featured a dark triangle. Yes, it was heart and yes, emboldened by more sherry, I tried it. To my surprise, I rather liked it — sort of one step beyond liver. And then came piruleta de hueva de leche. This “lollipop” was a wooden skewer threaded with those soft roe pieces. I wasn’t keen on the texture or the taste but maybe it was just knowing what it was that put me off.
虽说我们的辛劳得到了很好回报（抑或说雪利酒功不可没？），但享受饕餮美食还在后头呢！第二天，我们回到巴尔巴特的El Campero餐馆，它开设于1965年，以各式金枪鱼美味佳肴而名震全西班牙。它推出的套餐可让游客品尝从腌制里脊鱼肉丁、生鱼片、烤鱼(tataki)到鞑靼牛肉末(tartare)的各式金枪鱼佳肴。一大浅盘的烤鱼块摆成黑三角形状。没错，这正是鱼心；我喝了更多雪利酒后才胆敢品尝。出乎意料的是，我很喜欢吃——有点越雷池半步。随后服务员端来了鱼籽棒，这种“棒棒糖”式的东西是木棒上串着那些软软兮兮的鱼籽块。我并不在意其质地以及味道，但也许正是了解了其底细才让我大倒胃口。广州西班牙语翻译公司。
You might think that would be more than enough tuna for anyone, but there is more, a lot more, going on during the short almadraba season. The coastal towns put on tuna-related events throughout May and Annie had timed her trip to coincide with the “tuna tapas route” in Zahara de los Atunes, which runs for five days every year. While Zahara is primarily a fishing town, it also has a stupendous beach — as does everywhere along the Costa de la Luz — and its little grid of streets is lined with bars and restaurants. For the tapas route, 39 of them each create a different tuna dish, many of them incredibly complicated, which are sold with a glass of beer, wine or sherry for €3.50 a pop — staggeringly good value. We only managed about 10 bars but had loin wrapped in seaweed served on a pebble, belly cleverly made to look like bone marrow and a Perspex box with compartments containing different cuts that looked like jewels — the final one was chocolate truffle filled with mojama air-dried tuna.
诸位也许觉得每位游客只是把金枪鱼吃够，但在整个短暂的金枪鱼捕捞季里，当地还举办了其它大量活动。各个海滨小城在五月间会举办与金枪鱼有关的诸多活动，安妮把自己的旅游项目在时间上巧作调整，使其恰好与萨阿拉-德洛斯阿图内斯村的“金枪鱼美食旅游路线”（每年历时5天）相同步。虽说萨阿拉-德洛斯阿图内斯基本上是个渔村，但它拥有异常迷人的海滩（光明海岸沿岸的各个小渔村无不如此），其纵横交错的小街上满是各式酒吧与餐馆。在整条美食旅游路线上，39家餐馆各自推出了特色金枪鱼佳肴，很多做得花样复杂，另加一杯啤酒、葡萄酒或是雪利酒只需3.5欧元——十分划算。我们只逛了大约10家酒吧，但品尝了鱼柳（海藻包裹后放在一块鹅卵石上）、鱼腹肉（模样很巧妙，酷似骨髓）以及有格挡的有机玻璃盒（里面装着不同部位的鱼块，酷似珠宝样），最后品尝的是放了很多风干咸金枪鱼条的巧克力蛋糕。
Can you imagine a better way to spend an afternoon? I looked out to sea, where a line of orange buoys marked the line of the almadraba nets, ready for the next morning’s catch. It all looked so tranquil.
诸位还能想出更棒的消磨下午时光的方式吗？我眺望大海，只见一排排橙色浮标标示出了古法捕捞金枪鱼的鱼网范围，它们正为明天一大早的丰收“蓄势待发”。一切显得那么祥和静谧。广州西班牙语翻译公司。广州西班牙语翻译公司
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The writer was a guest of Annie B’s Spanish Kitchen. Its Ultimate Almadraba Tour costs from €1,450 including four nights at the hotel Casa del Califa and the trip with Nature Tarifa. British Airways flies from London to Gibraltar (100km from Vejer)
安妮•贝内特是Annie B’s Spanish Kitchen厨房美食游项目的游客。Ultimate Almadraba Tour游项目最低价1450欧元，其中包括在Casa del Califa酒店入住4个晚上以及Nature Tarifa旅社安排的旅程。英国航空公司(British Airways)的航班从伦敦直飞距离贝赫尔100公里的直布罗陀。
Photographs: Ignacio Soto/Nature Tarifa; Robert Harding/Alamy
照片提供者：Nature Tarifa旅社的索托以及Alamy图片社的罗伯特•哈丁(Robert Harding)。
