Chinese shoppers now look for more than a logo
中国顾客开始寻觅“小而美”品牌
广州产品翻译公司：几年前，难以想象向中国消费者销售从未听说过的品牌。如今，中国消费者销不想炫耀有钱，而是想显示品味。
Jacqueline Lam sells western fashions to Chinese shoppers, via her website MiHaiBao. What may come as a surprise to anyone who has seen the throngs of Chinese tourists jostling to get into the Louis Vuitton section at Galeries Lafayette in Paris is that she does not focus entirely on top-end brands.
林艳(Jacqueline Lam)通过自己的网站“觅海宝”(MiHaiBao)，将西方时尚销售给中国消费者。那些见识过大批中国游客争相涌入巴黎老佛爷路易威登(Louis Vuitton)店铺场面的人可能感到惊奇的是，她并不完全专注于高端品牌。广州产品翻译公司。
The 28-year-old Chinese-born Danish citizen, who says she developed a keen sense of what Chinese shoppers want to buy abroad after years of being hassled by friends and relatives to bring “everything from toilet seats to cookies” back from Europe, is selling her customers on the idea of discovering new designers.
28岁的林艳是一位生于中国的丹麦公民，她说自己常年被亲朋好友麻烦从欧洲带“各种东西，从马桶座到曲奇饼干”，从中培养出敏锐的判断力，知道中国消费者想在国外买什么。她对顾客的销售理念是发现新设计师。
MiHaiBao does stock Moschino and Christian Louboutin, but its main focus is niche and relatively undiscovered brands, such as Italian knitwear group Boboutic and
觅海宝也销售Moschino和Christian Louboutin，但主要聚焦于小众以及相对陌生的品牌，比如意大利针织集团Boboutic，以及瑞典的Acne Studios，该品牌服装色彩明丽，难分性别，价位不到1000英镑。觅海宝——意为“寻觅海外珍宝”——的网站上保证，将为消费者提供“新锐独特的时尚趣物”。 广州产品翻译公司。
Yet just five years ago, selling Chinese customers labels they had never heard of would have been unthinkable.
然而就在短短五年前，向中国消费者销售他们从未听说过的品牌还是件难以想象的事。
Lam has tapped into a trend that could really shake up how the providers of luxury experiences, from handbag retailers to hoteliers, cater to ultra-wealthy Chinese. This market used to be about conformity and easily recognisable displays of wealth. Now, however, the richest Chinese consumers do not want to show they have money, but that they have good taste and that they are individuals. They are becoming much harder to sell to.
林艳利用的这股趋势，可能会真正撼动奢侈体验提供商——从手袋零售商到酒店业者——迎合中国超级富豪的方式。这一市场过去的关键是随大流，提供明显的炫富方式。不过现如今，中国的富豪消费者们已不想再炫耀自己有钱，而是想显示自己良好的个人品味。商家越来越难向他们推销商品。广州产品翻译公司。
“In the 1990s in Hong Kong, you would sell to rich mainland Chinese shoppers wearing designer sunglasses with the price tag dangling off the side,” says Sunny Wong, a veteran Hong Kong-based retailer who until 2014 ran outlets in mainland China for brands including Gieves & Hawkes, Kent & Curwen and Cerruti 1881. “What they wanted to buy was the label and [what] they wanted to show was that they could afford the price.”
王日明(Sunny Wong)是香港一位资深零售商，2014年以前在中国内地经营多个品牌的门店，包括君皇仕(Gieves & Hawkes)、肯迪文(Kent & Curwen)和卓诺迪 (Cerruti 1881)。他说：“20世纪90年代在香港，那些有钱的内地消费者是商家的兜售对象。他们戴着名牌太阳镜，留着价签在一边晃来晃去。他们想买的其实是价签，他们想表现的是自己买得起。”
Wong explains that the small proportion of Chinese with the money to shop in Europe really want to show their friends back home that they had been to Paris, London or Milan. The best way to do so is to bring back an item of obviously high quality that is definitely not available in the luxury malls of Beijing and Shanghai, which are now stuffed to the gills with Dior, Chanel and Burberry.
王日明解释说，部分有钱去欧洲购物的中国人，真正想向国内朋友展示的是他们去过巴黎、伦敦或米兰，而最好的展示方法就是带回一件北京、上海奢侈品商场——现在都堆满了迪奥(Dior)、香奈儿(Chanel)和博柏利(Burberry)——绝对见不到的高档货。广州产品翻译公司。
They “search online to find out about boutiques before they travel”, Wong explains. “On [London’s] Bond Street the shops are very familiar. It is not anything new for them any more; and they like European department stores for the labels they can discover there,” he says.
王日明介绍说，“他们出行前会先在网上搜索精品店的信息。伦敦邦德街(Bond Street)上的店铺对于他们已非常普通，没什么新鲜的，他们喜欢欧洲大陆的百货店，在那儿他们可以发现新牌子。”
In an intelligent take on this theme, through MiHaiBao, Lam is also offering those Chinese who cannot travel the chance to feel they, too, have visited a European boutique. “The middle class consumers can buy from us and they also get to discover a new European brand,” she explains.
通过觅海宝，林艳明智地利用了这一主题，她还借此为那些不能前往国外的中国人提供了一个机会，让他们感到自己仿佛亲临一家欧洲精品店。她说：“中产阶层消费者可以从我们这儿购买商品，还可以去发现新的欧洲品牌。”广州产品翻译公司。
Federica Levato, a Milan-based partner at consultancy Bain & Co, has seen the same trend. She says that while much of Chinese shopping in Europe is price driven because of
咨询公司贝恩(Bain & Co)驻米兰合伙人费代丽卡•莱瓦托(Federica Levato)也看到了这股趋势。她表示，尽管有许多中国人在欧洲购物是受价格驱动（因为中国对奢侈品征收高额关税），“但或许过去一年半时间里，我们看到了在欧洲的中国消费者的世故程度快速提升。”她说，这些购物者正在寻找“不那么炫耀的、更为精湛的商品，这类商品有其内在价值，而不只有个知名标识。”他们想要“独特的、个人的购买体验”。
Politics, as well as culture, also plays a part.
政治和文化也起到了部分作用。
Bain & Co’s most recent report on Chinese luxury spending identifies a “growing individualism [that has] continued the trend toward fashion and exclusivity; smaller, fashion-orientated brands are still gaining popularity”. While their parents and grandparents were inculcated with notions of conformity, Chinese millennials make more self-focused decisions.
贝恩在最新一份中国奢侈品消费报告中指出，“日渐增长的个人主义蔓延至时尚和独特性；小众的时尚品牌越来越流行。”尽管父母和祖父母那代人被灌输了随大流的观念，但中国的千禧一代做出更多关注自我的决定。广州产品翻译公司。
The Bain report notes that while middle-aged Chinese tourists still often travel in large tour groups – often wearing matching caps and trailing after a guide – the nation’s under-30s are more likely to travel independently.
贝恩的报告指出，虽然中国的中年游客仍常常参加大型旅游团出游——往往带着统一的帽子、跟随导游——但中国30岁以下的年轻人更有可能进行自由行。
Fashion tastes are changing for political reasons, too. Since he became president in 2012, Xi Jinping has cracked down on corruption in business and politics, creating a culture in which ostentatious displays of wealth are frowned upon. Wearing obviously expensive clothes is too risky nowadays for many of
出于政治原因，时尚品味也在发生变化。自2012年担任国家主席以来，习近平开始严打商业和政治领域的腐败，形成了一种抵制炫富的文化。如今，对许多中国超级富豪而言，穿着明显昂贵的服饰要冒很大风险。高盛(Goldman Sachs)最新一份报告显示，中国已变成“一群更简朴、个性化以及生活方式意识较强的消费者”的大本营。广州产品翻译公司。
The report added: “A far more pertinent issue for many of the large established luxury brands is how to stay relevant in today’s consumer environment.”
该报告补充称：“对许多大型老牌奢侈品牌而言，一个更突出的问题是如何在当下的消费环境使自己保持相关。”
在离中国较近的地方也能感受到中国人品味的变化。对内地的奢侈品买家而言，香港曾是他们最钟爱的购物目的地，因为这里的售价低于中国内地——中国对进口商品征收各式各样的进口税。然而，今年3月，香港零售业销售额连续第13个月同比下滑。广州产品翻译公司。
Analysts say this has something to do with Hong Kong’s commercial landlords having chased the high-end brands as tenants. The territory’s top shopping streets are dominated by the likes of Prada, Gucci, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Armani and Dior. But luxury outlets are now starting to close down.
分析师们表示，这与香港商业地产的房东竞逐高端品牌租户有关。香港最繁华的购物街都被普拉达(Prada)、古驰(Gucci)、香奈儿、路易•威登(Louis Vuitton)、阿玛尼(Armani)以及迪奥等品牌占据。但如今，奢侈品门店正开始关闭。
Chow Tai Fook, a Hong Kong jeweller that has reported slower sales, said in January that it would close between five and six stores.
已报告销售放缓的香港珠宝商周大福(Chow Tai Fook)今年1月表示，将关闭五至六家门店。
“Hong Kong has gradually come to be seen as a ‘commoditised’ destination and wealthy Chinese now favour edgier destinations in the region,” wrote HSBC analysts last year. Those who are not travelling to Europe are visiting
汇丰(HSBC)分析师去年写道：“香港已逐渐被视为一个‘平价商品化’目的地，中国富人如今青睐本地区更前卫的目的地。”那些没能前往欧洲的游客正在涌向韩国，后者在亚洲享有“引领趋势”的声誉。广州产品翻译公司。
“We do not see Hong Kong recovering,” says Bain’s Levato. “All the brands are over-exposed in terms of retail surface in Hong Kong, with some having 10-20 stores, and keeping all these locations is becoming unsustainable.”
“我们并未看到香港的复苏，”贝恩的莱瓦托说，“在香港，按零售店数量计算，所有品牌都过度曝光了，有些品牌拥有10至20家门店，维持所有这些门店变得不可继续。”
In
在中国，奢侈品牌可能不得不走向低端市场，吸引那些仍痴迷品牌的消费者。如今在香港采购巨头利丰(Li & Fung)执掌一个私人股本投资部门的王日明表示：“上海的秘书或许买不起普拉达的手提包，但她可以攒钱买太阳镜。这是一个非常令人兴奋的市场。超级富豪？在中国或许有200万人；这不是一个巨大的成长型市场。”
The money has moved elsewhere and the high-end brands need to follow. “The middle class is 200m-300m,” Wong says, “and it is growing hugely.”
资金已经流向别处，高端品牌需要跟随。“中国的中产阶层有两、三亿人，”王日明说，“而且还在快速壮大。”
